As pretty as a picture, and as fresh as a popsicle, Il Pellicano remains one of my absolute favourite European summer hotels. It is situated on the Tuscan Coast, a stones throw from the picturesque seaside town of Porto Ercole in Monte Argentario. To give you some perspective, it’s approximately 90 minutes by car to the centre of Rome, but in heavy traffic it may take two hours. It’s about the same distance from Florence. Porto Ercole is the preferred stomping ground for affluent Romans and VIP yachters, who moor our front and come in for lunch and Aperols en route to Sardinia or Saint Tropez.
The hotel has a glamorous and fascinating history. It started out as a private Tuscan home, originally built in 1965 by a famous American socialite and a dashing British aviator. This was where Hollywood and high society came to relax and party in privacy. In 1979 Roberto Scio fell in love with the hotel and purchased it. His daughter Marie-Louise continues today as creative director of the hotel.
Il Pellicano has a legion of loyal clients who return year after year to soak up the Tuscan sun and relax in the exquisite azure waters. Frida Giannini, former creative director of Gucci has stayed every year since 2004. Charlie Chaplin used to own a villa on the estate. The late Queen Juliana of the Netherlands sipped dry martinins mixed by the owner every summer for ten years from 1965, and Slim Aaron’s famously photographed the hotel and its glamorous guests over almost 30 years, and many of his most iconic images were taken at Il Pellicano. Other famous faces to partake in the Pelli cocktails over the years have included Kirk Douglas, Robert Mitchum, Gianni Agnelli and Sophia Loren, to name but a few. I suspect the guest book would read like a who’s who …….. but stylish hotels never kiss & tell!!
A number of best selling authors including Ernest Hemingway, Irwin Shaw and John Cheever also hung out at Porto Ercole at Casa Moorehead, the private villa of Alan and Lucy Moorehead. Aside from being my great Uncle, Alan was a renowned war correspondent who produced works such as Gallipoli from his tiny writing shed perched high above the villa. My grand parents and mother spent many summers holidaying in Porto Ercole with Alan & Lucy, thus the region has always held a special place in my heart.
Il Pellicano is famed for its ‘Sprezzatura’, which is an Italian term which represents “a certain nonchalance, so as to conceal all art and make whatever one does or says appear to be without effort and almost without any thought about it”.
Il Pellicano is now part of the Pellicano Group, which also includes La Posta Vecchia, the previous stately home of John Paul Getty, and now a beautiful seaside hotel close to Rome, and The Mezzatorre, the recently refurbished and stunning hotel located on the picturesque island of Ischia.
The Rooms
The hotel has approximately 50 rooms spread over the property in the main building and some in separate cottages. The rooms have a fresh traditionally Tuscan feel with the original terra-cotta tiles having been maintained over the years. Many of the rooms have terraces dripping with pink bougainvillea and stunning views over the ocean. Picture gorgeous headboards in lemon yellow linen with divine yellow and white striped arm chairs. The decor is quintessentially Mediterranean, fresh and comfortable whilst still maintaining the feeling of a Tuscan home from a bygone era.
The Restaurants
The fine dining restaurant aptly named Ristorante Il Pellicano is located on the elevated terrace with views out over the gardens to the ocean below. The restaurant has one Michelin star and serves innovative yet traditional Italian cuisine whilst showcasing the local organic produce of the Tuscan countryside. I recently tried a dish of tortellini with ricotta, summer truffles and chicory. It was one I’d go back for a million times. Simply sublime. The wine list is extensive with a wide array of recognisable internationals in addition to a fabulous selection of local producers.
Don’t miss the opportunity to sit around the garden after dinner with live music, chilled cocktails, and a sky literally ablaze with stars. It’s more than a little bit special!
The Pelligrill is an al fresco restaurant nestled between the main hotel and the pool. The menu is impressive and delicious with a breezy, more laid back vibe, and views to die for. I’d opt for the prosciutto melone followed by the grilled scampi. A chilled Negroni followed by the chocolate gelato should pretty much guarantee you’ll be taking a long siesta before donning your kit at sunset and starting all over again!!
The Beach Club & Pool
The beach at Il Pellicano is the piece de resistance of the whole shooting match!! It is accessed via a staircase which winds you down the cliff face, or if you want to arrive with rather less sweat on your brow, there is a lift, which whisks you down to the ocean. Levels of purpose built decking await, adorned with white parasols, comfortable sun lounges and the iconic yellow and white striped beach towels. The water is jaw droppingly beautiful, crystal clear and exquisitely refreshing. There is a huge timber pontoon with ladders either side where you can slip into the azure blue water. The especially attentive hotel staff dole out pool boats(or lilos) for bobbing around on the Med. It’s retro glamour with a side of Aperol. Simply divine!
The Spa
The hotel Pelliclub includes a small gymnasium, a beachside boutique selling brands such as Eres, Missoni, James Perse, and the sublimely chic For Restless Sleepers, who have a collaboration with the hotel group and have designed exquisite silk pajamas adorned with Pelicans. I’ll take two sets please!! The shop also sells Pellibirks having recently collaborated with Birkenstock’s to produce a line of appropriately colored Birks. Ideal for swanning down to the beach club bar.
The spa utilises two of my absolute favourite product lines – Biologique Recherche & Santa Maria Novella. The menu reads like an ‘oh my god I want one now’ list of heavenly sounding treatment rituals. Imagine a deep body exfoliation with Santa Maria’s Orange, Honey and Sugar Cane body scrub combined with the antioxidant qualities of Citrus fruits and Sweet Almond Oil. Heaven indeed.
Stepping Out
I should preface this section by saying that at Il Pellicano there really is no need to get out and about at all!! Relaxing at the hotel, bobbing around in the Med, and sipping cocktails in the garden is about as adventurous as you need to be!
If you’re feeling sporty the hotel has a superb tennis court, paddle boards, and snorkeling equipment. You can also hike into Porto Ercole ( approx 5 km) over hillsides aromatic with myrtle, heather, juniper and rosemary. The Argentario Golf Club is approximately 15 minutes from Il Pellicano and offers an 18 hole course with beautiful views over the region.
However, if you are the ‘action Sam’ type, there are a number of great spots to explore and activities to engage in both at the hotel and in the surrounding area.
Booking a hire car will allow you the opportunity to explore a little further afield. The nearby towns of Porto Ercole, Porto Santa Stefano and Orbetello are all worth a look. There are also divine beaches to explore in the region, including the famous Feniglia beach.
The hotel can assist you with boat hire if you are in the mood for Island hopping or water sports. The Island of Giglio is quite close by and offers great snorkeling in crystal clear waters, as well as the opportunity to explore the picturesque villages lined with local bars and restaurants.
The other big ticket items involve day trips through Tuscany, or into Florence or Rome. All very manageable via train from Orbetello Station or with a hire car or chauffeur driven car. Visiting wineries always makes for a fabulous adventure. The Maremma wine region is nearby and offers wine tasting, medieval towns and artistic gardens. If you’re keen to travel a little further afield, the Bolgheri wine region in Tuscany is fabulous and approximately an hour by car from the Hotel. This area is famous for Sassicaia and Ornellaia wines.
If you’re looking for a day trip and long lunch try Caino. This restaurant has two Michelin stars and is situated in a small, isolated medieval hamlet accessible via a network of narrow, winding country roads, The restaurant introduced the world to the cuisine of the Maremma, reinterpreted in elegant and contemporary fashion by talented chef Valeria Piccini. Her legendary dishes full of flavour have made Caino famous and established its reputation as one of the most inviting restaurants in Italy.
Getting There
Il Pellicano is about 5 minutes drive from the small town of Porto Ercole on the Tuscan Coast in Monte Argentario. It’s approximately 90 minutes by car from the hotel to either Rome or Florence. The Hotel can assist you with transfers or if you prefer you can hire a car and maybe take a leisurely drive through the picturesque Tuscan countryside en route to Pelli. If you’re keen to catch a train, Orbetello station is quite close and a short taxi ride to the hotel.
What To Pack
A holiday at Il Pellicano calls for bikinis, Kaftans, Missoni head scarves, fabulous Celine sunglasses, summer slides, silk slips for the evening in divine summer colours, a stylish hat and a Goyard beach bag. If you don’t have any of these in your wardrobe, grab a set of the Pelli PJ’s at the boutique and swoon around the grounds in a retro display of 70’s glamour!! Sophia Loren eat your heart out!!
The Wrap Up
With a timeless dolce vita vibe, a simply stunning location on the Tuscan Coast, and a picturesque hotel that feels every bit like your own personal Italian Villa, Il Pellicano delivers in spades! This is true old school Italian elegance on the Med. I’m a big fan of this sublime yet intimate boutique Italian hideaway, and much like its fiercely loyal list of regulars I’m ever hopeful that I too can return often to this little slice of heaven in Italy.