The island of Capri off the coast of Italy in the Bay of Naples is one of my most loved travel destinations in the world. From the divine green grotto, to the icy cold Limoncello served at La Fontelina, to the hand-made Italian sandals in Anacapri there is a lot to love about this beautiful Island.
With its jaw-dropping natural beauty, amazing cuisine, rugged terrain, crystal clear waters, and world-class shopping, it draws me back almost every year to sip a Limoncello at Nerano while watching the super yachts and the tiny wooden vessels sail by.
We usually stay at a hotel on Capri called J.K. Place . It is a small boutique hotel perched on the cliffs above Marina Grande. The terrace (pictured above) has the most beautiful views over the port. The perfect place to sip cocktails in the evening and watch the cliffs turn orange as the sun sets.
The rooms are superbly furnished – very cool interior design. The pool is also beautiful. It is an exquisite hotel.
If you can’t get into J.K., a similar property quite nearby is called Villa Marina. This is also a lovely boutique hotel.
The sister hotel to J.K. is the Tiberio Palace. This is centrally located in town, with very cool interiors.
There are a lot of very beautiful hotels on Capri. A few of our other favourites include The Quisisana ( in the centre of the town of Capri – very glamorous and ‘old school’) and The Capri Palace. This is up at Anacapri – about ten minutes by taxi on the highest part of the island. It is very beautiful. Caesar Augustus is another superb hotel at Anacapri with incredible views.
Boating and Lunching On Capri……………
The secret to Capri is to go out on boats during the day to escape the ‘tourists’ and enjoy the beautiful water, then come back to the island after 4pm when the last tourist boat has left for the mainland, shower and go somewhere for drinks & dinner.
To hire a boat on Capri there are a few contacts . Speak with your hotel or wander down to Marina Grande to chat with the locals. You don’t have to hire huge expensive boats, but if you are going to the mainland or to Ischia you are better to get something a little bigger and faster in case the swell comes up. Around the island you can just take a small, cheap boat. The little timber boats are divine and iconically Italian! Don’t forget you will need a red and navy scarf around your neck!!
A great lunch spot, and one of our favourite ways to spend the day is to book a table at Concha del Sonja . This is about twenty minutes by boat from Capri, and is on the mainland. It is just past Nerano (not far from Positano). It is a very casual, beach-side restaurant, and serves divine seafood, pastas etc. The fried zucchini flowers are a must, and the pastas are also simply superb.
Another great lunch spot is called Lo Scoglio da Tommaso. This is at Nerano. Take a boat from Capri. The food is superb, especially the gamberetti.
Another fabulous day out is to hire a boat and go to the island of Ischia . This is about an hour by boat and very beautiful. The water is crystal clear. Our favourite place to have lunch is called Giardeno Eden ( order the sea urchin pasta – it’s amazing , they are pulled straight from the water).
A great spot to take the boat for a swim, other than around Capri and the grottos is at Li Galli. It’s close to Nerano, so is a good option before or after lunch at Nerano.
The most beautiful aspects of Capri are the grottos – green , blue & white. These are the caves around the island. When you swim or sail inside, the mineral deposits below the water and the reflection of the light cause them to become beautiful colours. The two most popular are the blue and green grottos, however the white grotto is also well worth a visit. They are truly amazing. Pictured below is the Grotta Verde, or Green Grotto (my favourite).
One of my favourite spots for lunch on Capri is La Fontelina. It is on the edge of Capri and is a type of beach club perched on rocks. You can hire a boat to get there or you can brave the hundreds of steps down, and rather more painfully back up the cliffs. It is an institution. A must. Order a jug of Sangria and while away the afternoon eating great fresh seafood and pasta while looking straight at the majestic Faraglioni rocks which rise up out of the water.
One of our favourite places to swim is about 100 meters from Fontelina. It’s a small private beach which you get to by swimming through a cave. Take a bottle of Limoncello – it’s heaven. You can only access this by boat.
Another great spot for lunch is called Il Riccio . It is the very chic restaurant and beach club of the Capri palace and is set into the cliffs above the blue grotto. This is great for lunch or dinner. You can access this by road or boat.
Drinks, Dinner & Out on the Town…………
If you are in the town of Capri in the evening, looking for a place to have a drink, then grab a table on the terrace at the Quisisana . Order a Princess . It’s a glass of champagne with floating fragolini de bosco (baby wild strawberries). Simply incredible! The people watching is pretty incredible here too!
Capri has some of the best shopping in the world. It tends to be very busy with tourists during the day, so its best to go about 4 or 5 pm, have a drink then wander the streets and shop. All the shops stay open late and they will send your bags to your hotel if you are going out to dinner in town.
The best spot to take in a sunset is from the terrace/bar at the Capri Palace at Anacapri. Drinks and or dinner there are amazing, and the taxi ride up the hill is incredible (and just a little scary!! If you are bothered by heights, take in a stiff scotch prior to departure).
A great dinner spot on Capri is known locally as the Lemon Trees restaurant. It is a walk from J.K.Place, and is called Da Paolino. Delicious food, and a beautiful garden setting with tables sprinkled under an orchard of lemon trees.
Another great restaurant on Capri is called Aurora. It is pizza & pasta, and awesome! This is one of the most popular restaurants in Capri, and, on occasion, has been know to turn into almost a nightclub late at night. You need to book. Don’t miss it. The pizza is simply spectacular!
One of the most popular restaurants on Capri is Villa Verde. This is very popular with the locals, and the social set from Napoli. The lobster pasta is to die for! The restaurant is a huge ampitheatre like space, with a great buzz and fab service. Dinner here is a great starting point as the club/taverna Anema Core is a stumble or two down the street. If you want to really ready your guests for the night ahead – order Scrappinos for your table. A deceptively lethal combination of lemon sorbet, vodka and Limoncello! Just what you need to convince yourself that repeatedly smashing a tambourine against ones hip at the Taverna is actually music.
There is another great Restaurant at the lighthouse on Capri. This is called Il Faro. It is a decent cab ride from town but very beautiful. Make sure you arrive before sunset – incredible!. It’s like diamonds on the water!
If you are out late in Capri there is an incredible club called Anema Core. It is quite close to the Quisisana, in the centre of Capri, and opens at midnight. It is an absolute riot. It is set underground, and is something like a cave set up with tables and a bar. There is a live band and they play traditional Italian music . Both the club and the band are a very big part of the culture of Capri. Everyone stands on tables singing and dancing. It is seriously good fun. Tambourines are provided!!
Day Trips From Capri……..
If you want a great day trip from Capri, hire a boat and go across to Positano. It’s about thirty or forty minutes in a speed boat. You can wander the beautiful ( and very steep) streets of Positano, lined with boutiques and restaurants. It is a little touristy, but needs to be seen and enjoyed.
If you can book it, try to arrange lunch at the restaurant at the Hotel San Pietro. It’s amazing and very close to Positano. Arrive early as they stop serving lunch quite early. Otherwise lunch at Villa Treville is simply divine. Call ahead to check the water is not too rough to bring a boat in if you are arriving by water.
Another beautiful day trip is to take a boat to Amalfi. Then take a taxi up to Ravello. There is a beautiful hotel in Ravello for lunch or dinner called the Hotel Caruso – it is great and has amazing views of the Amalfi coast.
The bellinis are the best you will ever taste. While you are in Ravello you absolutely must walk up to the Cimbrone gardens. It is quite a lot of steps but truly amazing. Some of the most beautiful gardens in the world with views right down the Amalfi coast.
Then you could have dinner at the restaurant at the Sasso after, on the terrace – 50 m down hill from the Caruso . This is one of the most beautiful settings in the world. It is called Rossellinis. After dinner, take a taxi back down to the port in Amalfi, then arrange for a boat to pick you up and sail you home.
Speeding across the waters of the Amalfi coastline in the moonlight is nothing short of magical.