Audrey Hepburn once famously said ‘Paris is always a good idea’. And quite frankly, I couldn’t agree more.
If you haven’t been to Paris, then you haven’t really lived. I simply adore this city.
From the iconic and magnificent Eiffel Tower, to the wicker chairs lining the fabulous cafes on the Left bank, Paris is a city of luxury, beauty and decadence. From the petite bakeries, windows filled with golden, flaky croissants, to the majestic Notre Dame and the beautiful serene Seine River as she winds her way peacefully between the city streets. This is a city that needs no introduction!
I remember my first visit to Paris as though it was yesterday – I suspect everyone does!!
I was traveling with my husband and we decided to book an intimate little boutique hotel on the Left Bank, just off Boulevard Saint Germaine. It was rather gorgeous, but one of those rooms which are so small there is almost no spare floor space to stand within the room!! We arrived late at night in a taxi and crashed into bed.
I recall leaping out of bed early the next morning and heading down to the street. I stepped out and the air was literally buzzing with energy. There were busy cafes filled with patrons downing espressos at the counter, and right on cue a young girl rode past me on a quaint old push bike. She was chic and stylish with long brown legs and a fabulous dress. And to complete this quintessentially Parisian vision, she had a wicker basket strapped to the back of the bike with French baguettes literally bursting out of it !!! I was sold. This was the Paris of my dreams!
Whether you are an editor for Vogue flying in for fashion week, or you’ve escaped for a long week end of romance and retail therapy, Paris offers the perfect mixture of sublime cuisine, centuries old architecture, arresting art, and cutting edge fashion.
These are my tried and tested Paris favourites;
Where to Stay ;
The accommodation options in Paris are diverse and plentiful. Whether you’re keen to check in to a luxurious five star hotel in a chic location, or you fancy residing in a Parisian apartment in the Marais where you can peruse the galleries and prepare delicious meals, the options are endless and the only challenge is choosing which one to book. Here are a few I have tried, and adored, over the years;
The Bristol
Located on Rue Du Faubourg Saint Honore, the Bristol is a short stroll from some of the best shopping in Paris. The resident hotel cat, FA-Raon is often found lounging on the reception desk welcoming guests to the hotel,or relaxing in the huge open courtyard where staff serve flaky croissants and pain au chocolate to die for!! The Bristol exudes a sense of old world glamour. From its polished marble hallways dotted with spectacular floral displays, to the stunning curved Winter dining room rich in its sumptuous decor and its history. From its spectacular crystal chandeliers, softly lighting walls lined with 17th century antique tapestries, the Bristol is quintessentially Parisian, and one of my absolute favourites.
The Plaza Athenee
With signature red awnings and thousands of red geraniums adorning the Hotels external facade, the Plaza Athenee is one of Paris’s most iconic and beautiful luxury hotels. It is located on the famous fashion street, Avenue Montaigne, which adjoins the Champs Elysees, and is lined with exquisite high-end boutiques. The hotel wraps around a huge open air courtyard, a superb place for lunch or drinks in Summer. There are 5 restaurants and bars within the Plaza, including the three star Alain Ducasse restaurant where the entire ceiling is dripping in chandeliers. The Plaza really is The Grande Dame of Parisian Hotels and oozes old world glamour. It’s picture postcard stuff, and if you don’t choose to stay here, I would definitely recommend sipping Rose in the courtyard!
The Ritz
The Ritz in Paris is almost as famous as Paris itself. Since it first opened its doors on the famous Place Vendome in 1898, the Ritz has been a favourite of Kings and Queens, Ernest Hemingway and Coco Chanel, who lived at the hotel for 34 years. The Ritz recently re-opened after an extensive 4 year renovation. The glass ceilinged brasserie is an absolute must for lunch, and the Hemingway bar makes a perfect spot for pre-dinner drinks in a divine setting, tinged with old world glamour and history.
Four Seasons Hotel George V
Located in the upmarket 8th arrondissement, and just a stones throw from the Champs Elysee and the Arc de Triomphe, the George V is nestled within the golden triangle of Paris. Renowned for its spectacular floral displays in the lobby, the Hotel exudes a sense of palatial old world refinement. The restaurants have a swag of Michelin stars between them and include Le Cinq, l’Orangerie and Le George. Despite this gastronomic galaxy of stars, one of my favourite things to do is to pop into Hediard next door and purchase a picnic basket full of delicious Parisian goodies and settle in with a chilled vino and cheese to write home about in my pj’s ( silk, of course!!!)
The Mandarin Oriental
The Mandarin Oriental is conveniently located on Rue Saint-Honore amongst some of the best shopping in Paris. And let’s face it, when your room is about two doors away from Hotel Costes where you can while away a perfect afternoon in the courtyard, then life is very good indeed. The Mandarin has a huge open air internal garden, perfect for drinks in the evening. Some of the rooms have superb huge terraces – ask for room 610!! It has a terrace to die for!!
La Reserve
Having spent a glorious week at La Reserve Ramatuelle in the south of France, I am now a firm fan of Michel Reybier’s portfolio of properties. La Reserve Paris is a 40 room hotel in a quiet tree-lined street moments from the Place de la Concorde. With brocade taffeta, velvet drapes and silk wallpapers, the Hotel is an explosion of colour and texture in the best way possible. The walls inside the lift are lined with cuir de cordoue (or gilded leather), and many of the rooms have staggering views of the Grand Palais and the Eiffel Tower. This one is definitely on my wish list, if nothing else I’m getting around those lifts !!
Hotel Costes
Hotel Costes is a small boutique hotel located on Rue St-Honore. It is best known for its courtyard restaurant and bar, both of which are heaving full pretty much all year round, and arguably some of the hardest tables to book in Paris. The courtyard scene on a superb spring day is pretty much heaven. Dozens of tables, gorgeous dappled light, and dizzying numbers of uber chic guests ordering delicious cuisine. The hotel bar is opulent and dimly lit at night with dark furnishings and rich brocade drapes. Superb for late night martinis, pomme frites and watching the Parisian fashion set party.
Apartments in Paris
I tend to prefer to stay in hotels when traveling, however if you are more interested in finding a Parisien apartment to rent, the following websites may be useful ;
Restaurants in Paris :
It will probably come as no surprise to you to learn that France has more Michelin starred restaurants than any other country, and over one quarter of them are located in Paris. The French capital is bustling with a brilliant constellation of high end haute-cuisine establishments, in addition to the more traditional bistros and brasseries.
Here are a few of my favourite restaurants in Paris ;
Le Pre-Catalan – This is one of my absolute favourite / not to be missed restaurants in Paris. It is set within the Bois de Boulogne on Route de Suresnes in the 16th arrondissement. Pre Catalan has three Michelin stars and is a truly fabulous experience. Frederique Anton and his team serve exemplary cuisine and superb wines. Don’t even consider not ordering the green apple desert!! This is definitely a ‘jacket establishment’ !!
Pavillion Ledoyen – Yannick Alleno took up the reins at this historic pavillion in 2014, and several months later, snapped up his third star. The setting is as spectacular as Yannick’s cuisine. A neoclassical pavillion which first opened as a small inn in the late 1700’s and has welcomed famous faces over hundreds of years including Monet, Degas , and even Napoleon and Josephine are said to have met here on several occasions. As a side note, the head chef is dashingly handsome, and the truffle course we tried was honestly mouth wateringly delicious!
If you are dying to experience a three Michelin starred restaurant in Paris, and you can’t secure a table at Le Pre Catalan or Ledoyen, then try any of the restaurants listed below. They’re all incredible and unique. The whole three star experience is fantastically expensive, but to go to one of these exemplary establishments where the chefs are at the absolute pinnacle of their profession is truly a once in a life time experience. Order the tasting menu and don’t eat for about 12 hours before you go!! Here are a few we have tried and adored over the years ;
- Le Cinq ( at the George V Hotel)
- Arpege
- L’Ambroisie
- Guy Savoy
- Epicure ( at The Bristol)
- Alain Ducasse ( at The Plaza)
- Pierre Gagnaire
- Astrance
Hotel Costes – As I mentioned above, this is another one of my favourite lunch spots in Paris. It is on Rue St Honore, one of the best shopping streets in Paris! The restaurant is located in the internal courtyard and serves delicious food. A booking is usually required to secure a table, unless you are lunching with someone like Carine Roitfeld, in which case, I am sure they will happily seat you!!It’s also a great spot for a late afternoon drink or dinner.
La Societe – Nestled in the ample artistic bosom of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, La Societe is an expansive restaurant-cum-jazz bar that combines a dense British oakiness with a distinctly ’je ne sais quoi’ French flavour. Societe has a wonderful ambience, great food and a cool crowd.
Le Relais de L’Entrecote – This is another favourite of mine, and an absolute Paris institution. L’Entrecote is essentially a brasserie, where they serve only steak and frites!! It is seriously delicious food and a nice casual atmosphere. You can’t book a table – just go and join the queue! There is one located on Rue Marbeuf and another one just off boulevard St. Germaine.
Laurent – Laurent was initially Louis XIV’s hunting lodge and is now a divine restaurant located on the Champs Élysées. The restaurant is set in a gorgeous courtyard. You will definitely need to book ahead, and wear a jacket! With one star, this is old-school Michelin dining, without some of the fuss.
The Cabana Cafe – If you are looking for a semi-casual lunch spot while you are wandering the shops on Avenue Montaigne, just off the Champs Élysées, there is a chic cafe on the terrace of the Plaza Athenee. The Plaza has teamed up with its sister hotel, The Beverley Hills Hotel in LA, to deliver a taste of sunny California in the middle of Paris. Get comfy on a green and white striped banquette and order a McCarthy salad.
L’Avenue – L’Avenue is also on Avenue Montaigne, and is another great lunch spot. This is a little more of a scene! Great people watching. Lots of supermodels ordering delicious bowls of green beans (!) and smoking cigarettes. Actually, the food is delicious, and in nice weather you can sit out on the street.
L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon – This is another absolute must for lunch or dinner. A fabulous ‘sit at the bar ‘ French bistro, tapas style. It is on Rue Montalembert just off Rue du Bac. Not to be missed! I love this restaurant – the food is simply superb.
Bread and Roses – This is a gorgeous little restaurant for lunch if you are spending the day shopping on Rue St Honore. It is on Rue Boissy d’Anglas at the back of Hermes. Stop in for a delicious croissant for breakfast and you may find yourself tempted to stay on for lunch.
Chez l’Ami Louis – This is a restaurant at 32, rue du Vertbois, in the 3rd arrondissement. This controversial restaurant was famously ‘slammed’ by A A Gill in Vanity Fair in 2012, however I would tip that the proprietors of the eye wateringly expensive place don’t really care. With only 12 tables, and almost no signage, l’Ami Louis is a great way to spend a rainy afternoon in Paris. It has a fabulous wine list, and fantastic traditional French food.
D’Chez Eux – The red-checked tablecloths and jovial maître d’hôtel at this authentic southwestern French bistro near the École Militaire might seem like a tourist cliché—until you realize that the boisterous dining room is just as popular with food-loving locals and French politicians as it is with foreigners. Order the charcuterie and the escargot, smothered in a delicious garlic/ butter sauce.
Georges – At the top of George Pompidou. Gorgeous for drinks at sunset or after an afternoon exploring the National Museum of Modern Art.
Glou – A charming bistro in the Marais serving Spanish meat boards, scrumptious pasta dishes, and bold French deserts. Glou is owned by Marion Cotillard, so it’s definitely worth a visit. Have a drink at La Perle next door before dinner.
Chez Janou – This is a great traditional brasserie in the Marais. The cuisine is Provencale in style, serving dishes such as Ratatouille and lavender-scented creme brûlée.
Café Marly – This is a lovely French cafe located at the Louvre. Perfect for an omelet and a chilled vino blanc before you join the lengthy cues waiting to see the Mona Lisa.
Derriere – A classic French Bistro set in an apartment style restaurant, so you can have a champagne sitting on the edge of a bed, or retire to play ping pong after dinner! A brilliant spot for Sunday brunch.
Andy Wahloo – A great local bar next to Derriere, perfect for a cocktail before dinner. Think Morocco meets the 70’s!!
Le 404 – Originally featured in the Hipster Paris Guide, Le 404 is a great Moroccan restaurant in the Marais, offering delicious tagines which are a welcome culinary break from the beef bourguignons!!
Bob’s Kitchen – A fab little cafe in the Marais perfect for a salad and a cold pressed juice.
Rose Bakery – Rose bakery is a minimalist chic canteen which is great for a healthy quick lunch if you’re shopping in the Marais. Fabulous omelettes.
Au Passage – A petite neighborhood bar in the Marais serving tapas style plates and delicious wines!
Café Charbon – A perfect spot for traditional French brunch on the weekend.
Chez Prune – Perfect for a pre-dinner drink before a night out, or snuggle up on a banquet and share a cheese platter.
La Chateaubriand – This fabulous restaurant has a great atmosphere and is filled with locals. With a reasonably priced tasting menu and an exceptional international wine list.
Le Dauphin – This is the casual little brother wine bar next to La Chateaubriand serving food from the same kitchen. (Just in case you can’t get in to La Chateaubriand)
Café De Flore – This is one of the oldest coffee houses in Paris and a perfect spot for people watching in St Germain. Famous for its clientele of writers and philosophers – Pablo Picasso was a regular here!
Thomieux – A buzzy restaurant in St Germaine run by Thierry Costes, and famous for its menu of duck, veal and snails.
Marcel – A great buzzy café in the 18th, perfect for lunch and a fab spot if you are meeting for drinks.
Kong – A fabulous cocktail bar and restaurant next door to the head office of LVMH.
Shopping in Paris :
Colette – This was without doubt my favourite shop in Paris until it closed its doors in 2018. The Parisian fashion community wept!! I did too!! Since then the owners have reportedly opened a new and somewhat similar store called Nous. It is near Place Vendome and probably worth a look! It’s definitely on my hit list.
Merci – This is another concept store in the Marais. An absolute favourite, selling everything from chic rusty wallpapers to grungey t-shirts and retro household items. There is a cool little cafe in the basement too.
Assouline – This is a not to be missed fantastic book store just off boulevard St Germaine. It’s total heaven if you adore coffee table/travel books as much as I do!
Rue Saint Honore – This is a great shopping and wandering street. It houses all the big fashion names including Gucci, Hermes, Louboutin, Tods, Longchamp, John Galliano, Miu Miu, Prada, Bottega Veneta, Sergio Rossi, Lanvin, Chanel and Dior. I usually start at the Bristol end and wander up to Hotel Costes where I settle in to the courtyard for some much needed sustenance post retail therapy!
Le Palais Royal – This is one of my favourite places in Paris. Originally a Royal palace, which was built in 1639, Le Palais Royale remains one of the most beautiful pieces of architecture in the city. The gardens are truly magnificent and the feel as you wander around the arched walkways is truly memorable. The centre houses fab boutiques such as Rick Owens and is a gorgeous way to spend a few hours in Paris.
Dries Van Noten – The Dries store near the Notre Dame is beautiful, and well worth visiting. It used to be an antique store.
Le Bon Marché – This is the biggest Left Bank department store and the oldest department store in Paris. Le Bon Marché specialises in luxury fashion for men, women and children but also furniture, upscale gifts and homewares. It is definitely my favourite of the big name department stores in Paris.
The Golden Triangle – This is made up of the streets coming off the Champs Elysees. The main street is Avenue Montaigne which houses many of the large high end flagship stores such as Dolce and Gabbana, Dior, Chanel, Celine, Harry Winston, Prada and LVMH. A popular place for lunch along here is L’Avenue, on the corner of Montaigne and Rue Francois 1. (refer above). The Plaza Athenee is also on this street.
Maison Montaigne – This is another one of my favourite concept stores. It is located on Avenue Montaigne at the Champs Élysées end, opposite Gucci. This is slightly similar to the Dover Street markets in London. Fabulous.
Avenue George V – At the beginning, on the corner of the Champs Elysees is the huge LV store. Other hot spots on this street include Balenciaga, Hermes, The Four Seasons Hotel (The George V), and beside the hotel is a gorgeous shop called Hediard. This is a divine gourmet grocery store selling Fois Gras, cheeses, meats and beautiful boxed Parisian chocolates. Don’t miss it – it’s beautiful!
Berlutti – The home of the best bespoke men’s shoes in Paris. This is on Rue Marbeuf.
Charvet – Charvet is a French high-end shirt maker and tailor located at Place Vendome. The world’s first ever shirt shop, Charvet was founded in 1838. Since the 19th century, it has supplied bespoke shirts and haberdashery to kings, princes and heads of state.
Clignacourt – The most famous flea market in Paris is the one at Porte de Clignancourt, officially called Les Puces de Saint-Ouen, but known to everyone as Les Puces (The Fleas). It covers seven hectares and is the largest antique market in the world, receiving between 120,000 and 180,000 visitors each weekend.
Sight Seeing :
Paris has so many fabulous tourist attractions including The Eiffel Tower, The Opera, Notre Dame Cathedral, the Arc de Triomphe and The Louvre. The open topped busses are incredibly touristy, but if it is your first visit, it’s a great way to see the sights. I also love walking in Paris. Grab a map, take the Metro to an area such as The Marais and wander the divine streets exploring this beautiful city. A cruise on The Seine is also a great way to take in the sights of Paris.
Le Louvre is one of the largest and most important museums in the world. It is housed in the expansive Louvre Palace, situated in the 1st arrondissement, in the heart of Paris. The collection of the Louvre Museum was first established in the 16th century as the private collection of King Francis I. Some of the most famous works of art in the museum are the Venus de Milo, the Nike of Samothrake, the Dying Slave by Michelangelo and of course Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa.
Tuileries Garden – These beautiful gardens were created by Catherine de Medici in 1564, and are a perfect way to spend a day strolling and relaxing in Paris.
Montmartre – This charming village in the 18th is home to the famous Sacre-Coeur Basilica and is also a melting pot of art and inspiration perched high on a hill in Paris.
Moulin Rouge – This risqué world famous cabaret makes for a fun night out and is almost as famous as the city itself.
Other sights not to be missed include Monet’s garden and the Palace of Versailles. You will need to hire a driver or a car for these as they are outside Paris, but they are both absolutely incredible.
Getting Around Paris :
The Paris Metro is easy to use and a great way to get around Paris quickly. If you’re not keen on The Metro you can take taxis or an Uber, or simply set off to explore this dazzling city on foot. It’s a fabulous way to explore Paris, and a good way to burn off some of the Fois Gras and croissants!!
What to pack and wear in Paris :
As with any holiday, what you wear is dictated by the weather and the time you travel. Paris can be freezing cold and wet in winter and boiling hot in Summer. That said, I think anything goes, however, Parisians on the whole are fairly stylish and rather impeccably attired. So I’m usually a little more chic in this fashion capital. Oh, and I always pack a scarf!
Bon voyage!